Cantine Olivella Vipt Piedirosso Vesuvio Italy 2023

Below the ancient volcanic peaks of Mount Vesuvius lies a small winery named Cantine Olivella, which was established in 2004 by Andrea Cozzolino. The name Olivella comes from a natural spring at the base of Monte Somma, dell'Olivella, where the winery is located and where, in 1974, archaeologists discovered Roman empire-era amphorae that signified the region's long history of grape growing and winemaking. Cantine Olivella is in the heart of the Vesuvio National Park, where the land's protected status preserves the region's natural landscape and indigenous varietals. Andrea takes it further with traditional and minimal intervention techniques in the cellar.

Since 2004, Andrea has farmed 30 acres alongside his family in three sub-regions of Monte Somma (the oldest portion of the volcano): Somma Vesuviana, Sant'Anastasia, and Pollena Trocchia. The areas are distinct in their elevation, ranging from 900 to 2,400 feet high, distinct in soil type of volcanic sand, and distinct in locale being surrounded by wild forests and brush. The vines grow from ungrafted rootstock or "piedi franco," which is possible because of the phylloxera-resistant nature of volcanic soil that lends to concentration in the fruit. Additionally, volcanic sand is known for producing exceptionally mineral-driven wines because of the high iron, potassium, and volcanic ash levels. Andrea farms by hand to avoid disturbing the beneficial herbs planted in between the rows, which keep erosion and pests at bay, and because the more remote location makes getting large machinery into the vineyard difficult and unnecessary.

Piedirosso is native to Naples and made its way to Campania between the 18th and 19th centuries. The grape derives its name from the stalk's color, which turns a deep red hue once the clusters fully ripen. Up until recently, Piedirosso mostly acted as a blending grape with other native varietals. Newer producers like Andrea have breathed life into the varietal by crafting 100% Piedirosso wines with the best versions hailing from Vesuvio as the grape thrives in the volcanic soil.

After hand-harvesting the Piedirosso, native yeasts kicked off fermentation in tank where the wine continued for the aging period of 10 months. Andrea aged the wine in bottle for three additional months before release. The first wafts from the glass exhibit wild, red fruit aromas, hinting at underlying notes of cracked pepper and smoky meats. Firm tannins on the front palate lead to a medium body showcasing black plum, freshly turned earth, and wet stone.