William Lane Alder Springs Vineyard Vermentino Mendocino County 2023

We often get asked by wine writers what new trends we see in the wine industry. Some are heartfelt, earth-conscious, or monetary-based movements from what we regularly witness. For instance, Cabernet might not be in vogue to some start-ups because the cost of buying high-quality fruit has become unattainable. Or, looking into the future, specific varietals may be less viable given rising temperatures in particular regions. For others, and ostensibly a healthy majority, there are personal reasons for choosing the road less traveled.

For two friends, Bill and Lane of William Lane Wines, a love for Mediterranean varieties sparked their interest in this venture. Beginning with Nero d'Avola, a common and recognizable native Sardinian varietal, they set out to "discover the potential of grapes from Sicily, Sardinia, and Santorini in California's diverse microclimates and geologies." They not only want to produce wines from grapes that already are established, but they see a future in cultivating new plantings in places where the grapes will thrive, their characteristics will represent their origins, and their style will express their surroundings as they capture the elements (sun, wind, temperatures: part of the overall terroir) reminiscent of their heritage.

A roll call of the previous, current, and future release wines vinted by William Lane is quite esoteric, with some varietals having less than 100 acres planted in California. Regarding unusual varietals in California, Alder Springs Vineyard is renowned for its ingenuity and pioneering reputation of planting lesser-known grapes. After testing multiple sites, Alder Springs owner and farmer Stu Bewley planted the first vines on the 6,000-acre property in the early 90s. He found that Alder Springs' soil composition, microclimate, and elevation made it an unexpectedly exceptional plot for grape growing. Stu is no stranger to experimentation and introduced hundreds of obscure varietals like Petite Arvine, Falanghina, and Vermentino while using regenerative farming techniques at a time when those two words did not buzz as they do today. Alder Springs' cool growing season allows the fruit to stay on the vine longer and develop flavor while promoting naturally higher acidity.

2023 was the inaugural vintage of Vermentino for the William Lane team and one with exceptional fruit. They pressed the fruit as whole clusters and split the juice between a concrete egg vessel and barrel for fermentation. Bill and Lane selected concrete to preserve Vermentino's aromatic potency and chose neutral oak barrels to add weight and depth to the palate. Once complete, they transferred the wine in concrete to stainless steel tank, and the wine in the barrel continued to age in that neutral oak. "Lemon, lime, grapefruit, green melon, and a hint of passionfruit, with a snappy saline finish. This wine is fresh, welcoming, and delicious." ~Winemaker Notes