Maurer Red Fruit November Cabernet Sauvignon Subotica Serbia 2022

Many wineries and vineyards are advertising a commitment to sustainable farming these days, but few come close to the level of dedication of Oszkar Maurer of Maurer Wines. This devotion honors a history of viticulture and winemaking going back four generations of his family and of the wider community dating back to Roman rule. Cherishing the time-honored traditions and the esoteric and indigenous varietals of Serbia requires a thoughtful approach to farming that maintains the health of vineyards for centuries and generations to come. Oszkar has fully committed his vineyards and winery to the sometimes pain-staking techniques and acts as a mentor for other small producers in Serbia striving to revive the area's native vines and progress the Serbian wine industry.

Oszkar's family has made wine for four generations, yet he did not begin making wine until 1994 after studying Pomiculture and Viticulture. At the time, he was one of few independent producers in Serbia making wine commercially and certainly one of only a handful utilizing natural winemaking techniques. This lack of small winemakers was due to the communist establishment, which, from the end of World War II, prioritized high-volume production versus the quality of grapes and vineyards. After Serbians elected a democratic government in the early 2000s, their wine industry began a steady incline with subsidies for wine growing that helped bring new producers into the market. During this time, however, Oszkar seized his winemaking production due to his inability to sell unfiltered wine. What an example of commitment to his ethos for cleaner, unadulterated growing and winemaking. For Oszkar, if he couldn't make wine through his vision, he wouldn't do it at all.

Over the last two decades, he has garnered pioneered status in the Serbian winemaking world, often mentoring and guiding young winemakers looking to transition their family vineyards to organic and biodynamic practices. He stewards some of the oldest vines planted in Serbia (dating back to 1880) and champions the local, indigenous varietals by restoring old vineyards of almost extinct grapes like Bakator and Sremska Zelenika. The Cabernet Sauvignon for his Red Fruit November lives alongside these ancient grape varietals and historic vines in the 6 hectares of vineyards farmed by the Maurer family in the Subotica region of northern Serbia. The area is known for its sandy soils, which allow older vines to flourish despite phylloxera, which is present in other areas since the louse cannot thrive in sand. The vines are densely planted and stake-trained, with natural cover crops that grow freely. All work in Oszkar's vineyards is done by hand or with the help of horses, using organic practices with no chemicals or pesticides.

Once harvest begins, the Maurer family relies on extended family and friends to bring in fruit throughout November. This later-than-usual harvest allows the grapes to develop a layer of botrytis, also known as Noble Rot. Botrytis is a fungus that grows on fruits and vegetables and is part of the same family of fungi you find in popular blue cheeses. When it comes to wine, it's a welcomed trait used in the production of many dessert wines as it sweetens the grapes and adds complexity to the flavor profile. In Oszkar's opinion, botrytis on red grapes accentuates flavors of rosehip, softens tannins, and brightens acidity. He pressed this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon directly into barrel where native fermentation took place. A small portion was fermented semi-carbonic, and the wine was bottled using gravity, unfined and unfiltered.