Champagne JM Sélèque Soliste Meunier Les Gouttes d'Or Pierry 1er Cru 2018

Almost like a reflection of the cyclical nature of winegrowing, with harvest's rise and fall, JM Sélèque's has come full circle in its third generation. From its modest beginnings in the early 1960s under the stewardship of Henri Sélèque to the modernization in the cellar and of the farming by his son, Richard Sélèque, and now back to the land and traditions of Champagne under the hand of Jean-Marc Sélèque. JM Sélèque's undulation of approach and method has flowed in step with the adaptation of the region of Vallée de la Marne, which, after decades of pushing toward mass production and standardized palates, is experiencing a renaissance of quality and grower Champagnes.

After planting his vineyards in the early 1960s, Henri Sélèque crafted and sold his first bottle of Champagne in 1969. Having emigrated from Poland, Henri was not a professionally trained winemaker but sought the advice and mentorship of his father-in-law, who managed the Pierry grape cooperative. During this time, most growers did not produce their wine; instead, the cooperative-manipulant system was commonplace. Growers within a localized sub-region sold their grapes to the cooperative, combining them to craft a single-label Champagne or selling them to négociants. Henri selected an exceptional time to enter the world of Champagne, as the late 60s and early 70s brought a boom in sales worldwide.

As international demand for Champagne increased, Henri's son Richard completed his oenology degree and returned home to join his father in the new family wine venture. Richard's desire to learn all facets of Champagne production meant he spared no expense in improving the farming equipment and implementing winemaking systems and standards for their brand. His meticulous nature and keen eye for detail still permeate the culture in the cellar at JM Sélèque. Simultaneously advancing their winery into the newest technologies, Richard and Henri continued buying up parcels in Pierry and Moussy, and into the Côte des Blancs when exceptional fruit from the highest quality terroir became available.

Just like his father before him, Jean-Marc embraced the family business by studying oenology and viticulture. Following in the footsteps of Henri and Richard, he is persistent in his pursuit to improve the quality of their wines, but Jean-Marc turned the focus to the health of the vines and their surrounding ecosystems. Working in regions like Napa Valley and Yara Valley in Australia transformed his mindset regarding farming his family's vines. While Richard placed great importance on technology used in the cellar, Jean-Marc tunes himself to the terroir and believes his place as a winemaker is in the vineyards. These new techniques include preserving the life of the soil through organic and biodynamic practices, controlling yields, seeking balanced levels of ripeness in the grapes, and hands-off winemaking. Jean-Marc understands the privilege of being handed nine hectares of old vines to steward and is committed to preserving it for the next generation.

The Soliste Meunier comes from Les Gouttes d'Or, a vineyard with original plantings from 1951, 1953, and 1968. Soils here are chalk-heavy and enhance the clean, fruity aromas and flavors while adding a touch of salinity to the wines. Being 100% Pinot Meunier, the red fruits and florals are impressive on the nose and supported by touches of toasted almond, raspberry, and rose petals on the palate. Soft bubbles spread across the palate and a delicate acidity lasts through the finish.