Vangone Estate Marsanne Napa Valley 2021

Off the beaten path describes Vangone Estate to a “T.” Nestled between Pritchard Hill and Atlas Peak, the rugged property overlooks Oakville’s red hills from a 1,000 ft. elevation.  To access the vineyards, one must drive 20 minutes south as the crow flies and then trek back through the dirt country roads of the Vaca Range to reach the gate. Deeming them an under-the-radar brand almost seems an overstatement, with their total winery production being under 700 cases across four wines.  The property is truly a diamond in the rough with its isolation, making it an outlier of the best kind with a distinct terroir entirely.

Diamonds take time and patience to form, so the Davidowski family (Vangone’s vintners) invested 20 years into developing the property before any vines bore fruit.  Purchased in 1993 by Ron & Karen Davidowski, the parcel spans 108 acres and required establishing infrastructure and utilities before planting any vineyards.  In 2011, they planted 20 acres of vineyard comprised of predominately Cabernet Sauvignon, with a touch of Cabernet Franc.  Winemaker Sam Kaplan and Vineyard Manager Mario Bazan work hand-in-hand to perfect the vines and extract the essence of this stellar property.  And why is it called Vangone, you ask?  When the remote property was in the early stages of development, police noticed an abandoned van on the property.  Upon further inspection, they found it jam-packed with a controlled substance that, at the time, was not yet legalized.  The owner mentioned the problem to a vineyard worker, and when he inquired about the van’s whereabouts the next day, the reply was “Vangone.”

In later years, the family petitioned to expand the property, and, in the approval, two parcels (totaling three acres) joined the collection but were not prime for traditional Cabernet farming techniques.  The team instead selected Marsanne as the varietal to plant since the soil mimicked that of France’s Rhône Valley.  And it just so happened that Mark Davidowski’s (Ron & Karen’s son) favorite white wine, Hermitage Blanc, comes from that very region.  Sam and Mark decided that establishing this new mini plot called for a research trip to France to study the vineyard management and cellar techniques of Tain l’Hermitage and Tournon sur Rhône and, of course, indulge in the area’s world-renowned wines.

Their findings led them to plant the Marsanne vines more densely, which began bearing fruit in the next vintage.  However, they chose to hold back and not release wine until 2020.  Even then, the production was so small that the family and friends enjoyed most of the wine.  2021 marks the second vintage, and Vangone produced a still slim 230 cases.  The 100% Marsanne wine aged 14 months in a combination of new French oak puncheons, concrete egg, and clay amphora.  You would be hard-pressed to find another Napa Valley Marsanne as this might be the only vineyard, but you’ll undoubtedly be stumped in procuring another of this caliber.  The first sip of this wine hooked us, and we know it will catch you, too.  Unlike other Marsanne, there is an astounding freshness with the alluring aromas of white peach, quince, and fresh-cut white flowers.  While the palate is refreshing, the finish lingers ever so slightly with white cardamom, honeysuckle, and crushed chalk flavors.