Filomena Griffin's Lair Vineyard Syrah Petaluma Gap 2017

Many know that repetition can be the enemy of innovation in our careers.  Repeatedly executing the same tasks can dull the once-shiny passion of even the most genuine callings.  The wine world is no stranger to this occurrence, and the term “cellar palate” applies to winemakers.  Wine critic Jancis Robinson defines cellar palate as “what happens when a wine producer becomes too acclimatised to their own wines or those of their neighbours.”  Fighting off cellar palate was the original inspiration for our Pulse wine club, as a membership for local winemakers to explore different regions, varietals, and styles from those they craft at their day jobs.  For winemaker and owner of Filomena, Luke Nio, creating his family brand was the perfect antidote to staving off a stagnant style.  In Luke’s words, “Filomena is an outlet to experiment and express himself through his winemaking, and make some delicious wines along the way!”

Filomena is an excellent example of the brands we cherish showcasing in our club.  These side hustles and family brands miraculously find hours after finishing their day job to craft exceptional wine that reveals a bit more of their personality.  Luke grew up in Petaluma, California, amid the growing Sonoma wine scene, and attended UC Davis right out of high school, where he earned a BS in Viticulture and Enology.  From UC Davis, Luke quickly joined the team at Kaz Winery, where he was steeped in the natural winemaking world before it was as mainstream as it is today.  Following Kaz Winery, he worked multiple harvests in California and internationally before returning to Sonoma as the Cellar Master of Bedrock Wine Company.  Luke’s seven years at Bedrock informed his style greatly and is where he first learned of and worked with the Griffin’s Lair Vineyard.  Now as the Assistant Winemaker at Green & Red Winery in Chiles Valley, he explores his hometown region, specifically Petaluma Gap, through the Filomena brand.

Griffin’s Lair Vineyard sits at the southern end of the Petaluma Gap sub-AVA, a mere 5 miles from San Pablo Bay and 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean.  The Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Viognier vines stretch across 35 acres, and were originally planted by Jim & Joan Griffin.  The Griffins were early advocates for establishing the Petaluma Gap AVA, which was officially recognized as an AVA in 2017.  Petaluma Gap’s most distinguishing feature as a grape-growing region is the anabatic wind that rushes like clockwork into the area every day in the late afternoon.  As the valley warms up midday, the cooling breezes off the Pacific Ocean are pulled through gaps in the coastal range and flow south to San Pablo Bay, cooling the grapes along the way and pausing photosynthesis.  The process allows the fruit to stay on the vine and ripen slowly, with sugar and acidity levels developing a harmonious balance.  

Luke harvested the 2017 Syrah in late September and natively fermented the fruit with 100% stem inclusion.  An extended maceration on the skins for 25 days imparted more tannic structure and color.  After pressing, the wine aged in 500L oak puncheons for 16 months and was bottled unfined and unfiltered.  With almost three years of bottle aging, the aromas and flavors of the wine have melded beautifully.  Decanting and letting this Syrah breathe for 45 minutes to an hour will reward those who are patient enough to wait for a sip.  Juicy dark fruits like blackberry and wild plum fuse on the nose with hints of red and black peppercorns and Kalamata olives.  Savory, meaty notes lead on the palate, followed by flavors of date and tamarind, with the round tannins upholding a lightening acidity that continues through the finish.  With only 75 cases produced, we’re confident this Syrah won’t be around for long, and we’ll be on to enjoying the next of Luke’s explorations with Filomena.