Longavi Wines Black Summer Chenin Blanc Swartland 2021

Longaví Wines combines the talents of two long-distance friends whose work as winemakers spans continents and explores two lesser-known wine regions of the world, South America and South Africa.  Julio Bouchon of Chile and David Nieuwoudt of South Africa joined forces in 2012 to originally unearth the possibilities of a South African winemaker’s techniques on Chilean terroir.  Those familiar with the brand may remember their catching-named label, Glup! which showcased the traditional varietals of Chile.  Julio and David’s newest adventure takes place across the Atlantic in South Africa, swapping roles this time with Julio crafting wines from the storied vines of David’s homeland.

Swartland’s farmers traditionally grew wheat, and the region is known for its scorching and dry climate.  Swartland is Dutch for “black land,” a moniker from the indigenous rhinoceros bush that turns black in the summer.  Hence, Longaví’s “Black Summer” denotes the swaths of land covered in the black brush during the peak season before harvest.  When growers first expanded their repertoire and began planting vineyards, certain practices became commonplace to combat the intense conditions and developed the stylistic voice of the region.  Growers implemented stand-alone trellising, also known as “bush vines,” because the hardier vines are drought resistant.  Bush vines can be planted closer together, which in Swartland’s dry, hot air leaves no concern for fungal disease.  Most importantly, the sturdier vines root deep into the soils in search of water (as most of the region is dry-farmed) and produce smaller yields of highly concentrated berries.  As a result, wines from Swartland are full-bodied and fruit-driven, and the 2021 debut Black Summer from Longaví is a prime example.

The vines from which this 100% Chenin Blanc is sourced are almost 30 years old and follow the traditional bush-vine trellising and dry-farming practices.  The hand-harvested grapes are pressed as whole clusters, and the juice is left to settle for a day before fermentation. Next, a slow native fermentation takes place in 400L French oak puncheons over almost two months.  After racking into neutral barrels, the Chenin Blanc is stirred every month over ten months of aging to agitate the lees and impart a creamy, textured mouthfeel.  On the nose, white florals are potent with touches of citrus zest and chamomile tea.  The palate is smooth, full-bodied, and reminiscent of lemon pound cake, jasmine, and dried apricots.  Chenin Blanc is perfectly paired with fresh seafood, and the 2021 Black Summer is a grand accompaniment to a spicy fish curry or steamed mussels in wine.