Edaphos by Ernest Prie Vineyard Picpoul Lodi 2021

Edaphos was born out of a desire to take risks, and proprietors Erin Brooks and Todd Gottula are certainly not strangers to this itch.  In 2012 they started their first wine brand, Ernest Vineyards, which focuses on site-specific Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from Sonoma County.  Nearly a decade later, the brand has grown to encompass 12 distinct vineyards, with wines as celebrated as they are honest and well-made.  However, true entrepreneurs never stop dreaming and scheming.  In 2015, Erin and Todd launched Edaphos, designed to explore winemaking techniques and varietals that were a departure from their portfolio of Ernest.  Edaphos is the Greek word for soil, and the labels don stunning prints of Japanese textiles from the Edo period.  These prints, designed in the 1500s, signify the tensions in our natural world, emphasizing the balance between depth and weightlessness.  This notion perfectly describes the wines that Erin and Todd seek to make – wines of complexity and nuance, yet so well balanced and integrated that they inspire a sense of ease.

As if a new adventure-seeking label wasn’t enough, Erin & Todd sought again to adapt and, in 2019, committed to exclusively partnering with growers farming organically or biodynamically.  Stylistically, Edaphos’ winemaker, Joseph Ryan, strives to let the impeccably farmed fruit take center stage and employs minimalist techniques to facilitate this terroir showcase.  This style ranges from foot tread for pressing to low sulfur additions after fermentation, while their vineyard sources minimize or eliminate chemical fertilizers or soil amendments and avoid topsoil tilling.

Picpoul falls squarely into the obscure varietal category we infrequently enjoy here in California.  Predominantly planted in southern France and used as a blending grape for the wines of the Rhône Valley and Languedoc, Picpoul thrives in Mediterranean climates.  The Lodi AVA is home to warmer weather with heavily sandy soils, mimicking Picpoul’s indigenous biosphere.  Prie Vineyard’s proprietors, the Gash Family, have been stewarding their land since 2012 and are slowly transitioning from commercially farmed bulk Cabernet to an ecologically balanced vineyard with a breadth of unique varietals.

An early picking allowed the Picpoul berries to maintain their naturally high acidity and a quarter of the grapes underwent foot tread before transport to the Ernest winery.  The wine was fermented with native yeast in stainless steel at cooler temperatures, and after the three-month aging, Joseph filtered it to halt malolactic fermentation and bottled it.  Pure aromas of white citrus blossoms, acacia flowers, and grapefruit fill the nose with a refreshing palate of Meyer lemon and green apple that awakens your taste buds.  Pair this with a traditional Bouillabaisse or grilled swordfish with beurre blanc, and you’ll sing the praises of the debut 2021 Edaphos Prie Vineyard Picpoul.