Barbara Öhlzelt Zöbinger Grüner Veltliner Kamptal Austria 2020

Ahh.. mention the lovely nation of Austria, and thoughts drift to Mozart, the snowcapped Alps, The Sound of Music, edelweiss, wiener schnitzel, and waltzes along the Blue Danube. One would be forgiven if incredible wine wasn’t the first thing to come to mind regarding this landlocked Central European country. For wine enthusiasts, however, Austria also conjures visceral, mouthwatering thoughts of the ethereal white wines made from the Grüner Veltliner grape. Despite not being household name stateside, Grüner Veltliner has been grown in the fertile valleys of the Danube watershed since at least the Roman era. And today, the grape has become something of an unofficial white wine of Austria; the way we immediately mentally associate Sauvignon Blanc with New Zealand or Riesling with Germany. Indeed, it is today the most widely cultivated varietal (of both red and white grapes) with over 36% of all vineyards in the country planted to Grüner Veltliner. This month’s Pulse selection comes to us from the rolling hills of the Kamptal region, which is bisected by the meandering Kamp River, a tributary of the Danube, and about an hour northwest of the capital city of Vienna. 

Grüner Veltliner is a higher acid wine that practically shimmers with vibrancy on the palate in its truest state. Unfortunately, in the hands of some of the larger Austrian winemaking concerns, the wine can become ham-handed: powerful, masculine, higher alcohol, and unctuous. Enter our winemaking savior of the month: Barbara Öhlzelt is a young woman on a determined quest for purity, precision, and crafting Austrian wine with a traditional mindset. She is soft-spoken but intense, and you might say her wines reflect her ‘still waters run deep’ personality. Barbara sources Grüner Veltliner from her family’s property as well as from several different vineyards that dot the landscape surrounding her tidy little medieval village of Zöbing. These sustainably farmed vineyards, about 12 acres in total, are characterized by soils comprised of granite, slate, and shale, which lend a flinty, linear freshness to the wine. 

The Grüner Veltliner grapes for Barbara’s 2020 vintage were harvested by hand in the early morning hours and transferred to small boxes for delivery to her cellar. After a gentle pressing, the juice was fermented in a combination of stainless steel and neutral acacia barrels to preserve the delicate fruit aromas. Upon opening, this wine bursts forth with aromas of lemongrass, white pepper, and citrus peel. With bright, crisp acidity on the palate complemented by flavors of white peach, this is the ultimate food wine. It is an ideal palate cleanser for rich foods like soft cheeses and charcuterie, but its racy spiciness pairs perfectly with Asian-inspired dishes as well. The hills are alive with the sound of praise for this amazing Austrian grape!